Lazybones: gives you wings

On paper, Lazybones is a hit. For a start, it’s got a name that would have any marketing department high-fiving across the boardroom – for a chicken-wing hangout with ancient sofas and a youth club music policy, ‘Lazybones’ is perfect.

Couple that with a cosy location hidden in London’s Farringdon (turn left down the alley next to the black phone box on Cowcross Street), and a menu that includes pulled pork, hot dogs, chilli brisket and wings of various chilli ferocity, and you should be looking at a winner.

And Lazybones is a winner, kind of. It’s got a noisy, friendly atmosphere on busy nights (avoid Monday when it’s completely dead, as are all pubs and eateries in the area). There’s comfy sofas and canteen tables to eat on, and the staff will talk about drinks till the slow-cooked pork is done if you do as much as say hello.

The food, though, is all over the shop. Everything’s served in cardboard boxes for the authentic fast food feel, but it’s a bit hit and miss whether it tastes any good. Try the chicken wings and you won’t go wrong – the hot ones pack a punch, and the milder flavours have a ‘secret recipe’ feel about them too. They’re messy and delicious.

We’ve had the pulled pork & slaw sarnie twice, the first time was way better than the second. It’s cooked in pale ale, fennel, honey and smoked paprika according to the menu, but second time around none of that really hit home. And the New York hot dog filled a hole rather than hit a spot.

Mains set you back up to about £8, with fries costing £3-£6 (the top end there is large with cheese – about the size of a chipshop bag of chips, and therefore a fortune).

Lazybones is casual and stylish. The eating promises much and only sometimes delivers. If you catch the chef on a good night (or stick to the wings and beer), you’ll go home happy.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *